Back panel parts kit plus PCB / Transistor / Diode mounting parts kit for the Deluxe Chassis (BACKORDER: ETS 2019-12-15)
A premium back panel parts kit, plus PCB / Transistor / Diode mounting parts kit for the deluxe chassis.
- Schurter 4304.6090 IEC Power Entry Module with 2 fuse holders
- 2 pairs of keyed, premium gold plated, heavy duty binding posts (A total of 4 binding posts, two red, two black). The keys match the deluxe back panel binding post hole locks (WBT/Dayton spec).
- Two gold plated Neutrik RCA inputs
- Mounting nuts, bolts and lock washers for the Power Entry Module
- 24 M3 brass standoffs for mounting your PCBs to the chassis heatsinks
- 24 M3 hex socket head bolts for securing your your PCBs to the standoffs
- 24 M3 hex socket head MOSFET / Diode mounting bolts
- 24 fender washers for MOSFET / Diode mounting
Kit composition notes:
- Your application will determine your specific voltage and amperage requirements so you will need to source your own fuses
- The back panel itself (pictured in some photos) is not included
- The kit contains 16 standoffs for mounting 2 typical amplifier PCBs (F4, F5, etc) to heatsinks using 8 standoffs per PCB. We include an extra 4 spare. We have been advised that if you are making the F5-T (which has 6 PCBs total) you will need to source an extra 4 standoffs. We'll include more in future batches but for now, please note there are 20 standoffs included.
- The Neutrik RCAs have mounting holes in the top left and bottom right. Be sure to install the Deluxe Chassis rear panel the correct way so the holes match up. If they don't, flip it around. Hifi2000 panels always have a "perfect" side and a "working" side. The "perfect" side of the rear panel should be facing outwards.
- If the included binding posts are "keyed" Dayton brand posts (usually the case), you might find that the keys are locked in at the wrong angle. They are set with a clock-turn like mechanism using zigzag gears, and it can only be turned when pulled apart. To fix this you need to pull the key out (may require needle nose pliers or some creativity) so it sits loose, and then turn the key "gear" to the direction you want, then re-insert it which will lock its direction in place.
Notes on soldering the binding posts:
Since the binding posts are quite thick, they will retain heat and might prove a little challenging if you aren't prepared. However with a good soldering iron and the right technique you can remain in charge :)
- Be sure to clean the soldering surface with alcohol or acetone prior to soldering
- Use a good soldering iron. You can't go wrong with a HAKKO, such as a HAKKO FX888D and it will literally last you a lifetime. Be aware that there are fakes out there, if in doubt order from your country's official distributor.
- Use a 1/8" chisel tip or high thermal mass tip. Here's a FX888D with a bundle of 5 different tips and here's a 5 chisel tip bundle pack.
- Set your soldering iron to approximately 800F (426C).
- It helps to add a bit of fresh solder to the tip of your iron
- Be sure to use a eutectic solder such as 63/37 Eutectic or Lead Free Eutectic solder. Eutectic solder has a melting point that is the same as its freezing point.
The title says it all, it is very good and will save you a lot of time!
Now with my little experience I would prefer stainless steel and higher standoffs for mounting the PCB, it would be less fragile and would give the possibility to use ceramic pads under the mosfet.
The brass is too fragile and I brook one inside the panel, that was impossible to recover the threaded part wich was stuck inside.
All arrived well wrapped and protected
Quality very good for this price
Will do the job perfectly
An absolute necessary item in your DIY construction.
The chassis is very good an. Can save a lot of mechanical work time.
Very good quality, helps a lot for quick building!
Great store - fast shipping!
We Also Recommend