Back panel parts kit plus PCB / Transistor / Diode mounting parts kit for the Deluxe Chassis

A premium back panel parts kit, plus PCB / Transistor / Diode mounting parts kit for the deluxe chassis. For June 2021 we have upgraded the binding posts.

• Schurter 4304.6090 IEC Power Entry Module with 2 fuse holders
• 2 pairs of keyed, premium gold plated, heavy duty binding posts
• A total of 4 binding posts, two with red keyed washers, two black keyed washers
• The keys match the deluxe back panel binding post hole locks (WBT/Dayton spec)
• Robust, solid, non insulated posts
• Short 10mm threads (These protrude less inside your amplifier, so there is more room to mount transformers)
• Two gold plated Neutrik RCA inputs
• Mounting nuts and bolts for the Power Entry Module
• Mounting nuts and bolts for each  RCA input
• 24 M3 brass standoffs for mounting your PCBs to the chassis heatsinks
• 24 M3 hex socket head bolts for securing your your PCBs to the standoffs
• 24 M3 hex socket head MOSFET / Diode mounting bolts
• 24 fender washers for MOSFET / Diode mounting
• 4 nylon washers to shim the binding posts in Deluxe chassis with steel rear panels 

Kit composition notes:

• Your application will determine your specific voltage and amperage requirements so you will need to source your own fuses
• The back panel itself (pictured in some photos) is not included
• The kit contains 24 standoffs for mounting 2 typical amplifier PCBs (F4, F5, etc) to heatsinks using 8 standoffs per PCB, or an F5-T (which has 6 PCBs total) which will use all 24

Installation notes:

• The Neutrik RCAs have mounting holes in the top left and bottom right. Be sure to install the Deluxe Chassis rear panel the correct way so the holes match up. If they don't, flip it around. Hifi2000 panels always have a "perfect" side and a "working" side. The "perfect" side of the rear panel should be facing outwards.
• If the included binding posts are "keyed" Dayton brand posts (usually the case), you might find that the keys are locked in at the wrong angle. They are set with a clock-turn like mechanism using zigzag gears, and it can only be turned when pulled apart. To fix this you need to pull the key out (may require needle nose pliers or some creativity) so it sits loose, and then turn the key "gear" to the direction you want, then re-insert it which will lock its direction in place.
• The rear panels of steel chassis are thinner than the aluminum panels, and the binding posts may not seat properly (wiggle). For use with those steel panels, we have included 4 nylon washers which you can use to shim the posts and have them seat properly.

Notes on soldering the binding posts:

Since the binding posts are quite thick, they will retain heat and might prove a little challenging if you aren't prepared. However with a good soldering iron and the right technique you can remain in charge :)

• Be sure to clean the soldering surface with alcohol or acetone prior to soldering
• Use a good soldering iron. You can't go wrong with a HAKKO, such as a HAKKO FX888D and it will literally last you a lifetime. Be aware that there are fakes out there, if in doubt order from your country's official distributor.
• Use a 1/8" chisel tip or high thermal mass tip. Here's a FX888D with a bundle of 5 different tips and here's a 5 chisel tip bundle pack.
• Set your soldering iron to approximately 800F (426C).
• It helps to add a bit of fresh solder to the tip of your iron
• Be sure to use a eutectic solder such as 63/37 Eutectic or Lead Free Eutectic solder. Eutectic solder has a melting point that is the same as its freezing point. We are now selling the perfect specialist solder for DIY use, Fire Metall eutectic solder. 

 Revision History

• 2021-06-16
• New more robust (and non insulated) binding posts with shorter thread protrusion have been included.
• Standoffs increased from 20 to 24.
• Back panel kit can be purchased separately from the binding posts.
• 2016-01-01
• Initial composition